From August 20 to 29 of this year, I spent nine unforgettable days in Iceland’s highlands with a travel group. The photo expedition was led by Stefan Forster. This report is meant to give you a small impression of the landscapes and conditions in the highlands. Before the trip, I received detailed recommendations on what to bring for the Iceland tour, such as: tent, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, gas stove, waterproof containers, and more.
Day 1
After our arrival in Keflavik, we first headed to the hotel. Shortly after, we went shopping – stocking up on groceries for the coming days in the highlands. In the evening, we enjoyed an excellent meal at a restaurant, knowing that for the next days we would only have ready-made meals.
Day 2
After breakfast, our tour into Iceland’s highlands began. We traveled with two off-road vehicles. Our expedition leader Stefan had arrived a few weeks earlier. With his own truck, he had taken the ferry route over the Faroe Islands to Iceland. The other vehicle was rented locally.
The trucks had 38-inch tires and could easily handle river crossings up to 1.2 meters deep.
After a few hours of driving along the south coast towards the highlands, the paved roads ended – and so did the streams of tourists. The highlands are almost deserted (apart from a few crazy photographers and adventure seekers).
Our destination was the Landmannalaugar area with its hot springs. At many spots, steam rises directly from the ground. Like everywhere on the island, Iceland here is shaped by volcanic activity, whose power and heat become especially impressive. You’ll find bubbling springs and boiling mud pools – endless photo opportunities.
In the evening, we reached our campsite. “Campsite” is almost an exaggeration: there was a container with a shower and toilet – the bare necessities, but considered a luxury in the highlands. Nearby was a natural hot spring where we could bathe. We cooked dinner over the fire and relaxed in the hot spring – a real experience! To top it off, we were rewarded with a stunning sunset.
Day 3
The morning began as the evening had ended: with a breathtaking sunrise and beautiful light. The alarm rang just in time before blue hour. I wanted to capture the hot springs at sunrise. The weather was perfect. The first rays of sun, steam rising over the meadows, and a mystical mood in the air – it looked simply incredible.
Our tour led us out of Landmannalaugar into the true highlands. For the next few days, there was no internet, no showers, no toilets, and no comfort. We cooked our meals over fire and drank water directly from rivers.
The landscape changed. Gradually, the yellow-red mountains gave way to darker terrain. Black sand, jagged lava rocks, and mountains covered in bright green moss stretched as far as the eye could see – remnants of past volcanic eruptions.
Honestly, you could have stopped for photos every ten minutes. Behind each ridge, the scenery was as stunning as it was different.
In the afternoon, however, the weather worsened. We stopped in the middle of the fjell. Two rivers wound their way through gorges next to a meadow, and a waterfall was nearby. We pitched our tents here. I tried to get some good shots, but the weather was too rough. Instead, I spent my time scouting photo spots for the next morning.
At night, there was a storm and heavy rain. But my tent stood firm – like a bunker.
Day 4
The next morning the weather cleared, and I managed to take this shot: standing in the river, waiting for the right moment. For a single minute, the sun broke through, illuminating the waterfall in the morning light.
Our journey continued deeper into the highlands – across hills, ash plains, and rivers. Some of these ash fields stretch up to 40 kilometers in length.
We spent lunch at a rock ledge at the foot of a 400-meter mountain. Despite the rainy weather, we decided to climb it (more of a climb than a hike). The view from the top was breathtaking. Even in wind and drizzle, I captured a few impressive shots. The descent in pouring rain proved difficult, but we managed!
Later, we stopped often to photograph the moss-covered mountains of the highlands.
Unfortunately, Stefan’s truck was damaged that day. Crossing a river, the front right wheel hit a rock and bent the control arm. Without a workshop, it couldn’t be fixed. We had to improvise. We spent the evening near a hut in the highlands, while Stefan drove alone three to four hours to the nearest repair shop. By noon the next day, he returned with the fixed vehicle. Incidents like this can happen even with the best truck in such terrain.
Day 5
We continued our tour through the highlands. Whenever a great photo spot appeared, we stopped. In the afternoon, we hiked to a nearby waterfall. From above, the view over the highlands was stunning. A few meters further, the river plunged into a gorge – unfortunately, there was no way down, otherwise I would have loved to photograph the waterfall from below.
The journey through primordial Iceland continued. The sheer size and vastness of the highlands is fascinating. Endless fields of black sand and lava rocks alternate with moss-covered mountains, cut by rivers carving deep gorges. You could easily spend weeks, even months, here and still not see it all.
That evening, we camped at a remote spot between two lakes. The weather cleared, and at night the sky was full of stars – a rare sight in Iceland. Sadly, there were no northern lights. That would have been the jackpot.
Day 6
Our group made its way back toward the south coast. After hours of driving, we reached the glacier lagoon Jökulsarlon. Huge chunks of ice constantly break off from the glacier, drifting through the river into the sea. The icebergs make fantastic photo subjects. The black sand beach, scattered with ice blocks washed by the waves, is another unique photo opportunity.
In the evening, we arrived at our hotel in Höfn. Finally: a real shower, dry clothes, and dry equipment. For dinner, we treated ourselves at a nearby restaurant.
Day 7
We drove along the south coast, stopping here and there for photos. Even a few Icelandic horses had to pose as models. Along the south coast, the flood of tourists is especially noticeable. Sadly, tourism in Iceland has exploded. Ten years ago, we were told, there were 80,000 visitors per year. Today, it’s nearly 1.5 million.
In the afternoon, we revisited the icebergs on the beach. The glacier lagoon Jökulsarlon, the river carrying the icebergs to the sea, and the beach are hotspots for hundreds of tourists. I felt like I was in a theme park parking lot.
By evening, we found a more remote spot near the lagoon to set up our tents. We hoped for northern lights, but clouds rolled in during the night. Seeing the aurora reflected in the icebergs floating in the lagoon must be magical – but it wasn’t meant to be.
Day 8
We headed back along the south coast toward Keflavik. Around noon, we stopped at the cliffs near Vik. The view over the ocean was stunning, and with luck, you might even spot puffins. Since last year, you can no longer drive up by car – the road was closed for safety reasons.
On the way, we also passed the famous Skógafoss. Once again, the place was teeming with tourists.
There wasn’t much else to see that day since we had to cover nearly 450 kilometers back to Keflavik – quite a challenge without highways like in Germany.
In the evening, we checked into our hotel and later enjoyed another delicious dinner at a restaurant. In general, Iceland is a very expensive country. Restaurant prices are high, especially for alcoholic drinks.
Day 9
Early in the morning, just after 7:00 a.m., our flight departed back to Switzerland.
Conclusion
Iceland is and remains a breathtakingly beautiful country full of natural wonders. Unfortunately, especially along the south coast in summer, there are far too many tourists. Yet the best landscape photos are usually taken in the early morning or evening – times when the crowds are smaller. The highlands are incredibly impressive and a true Eldorado for any landscape photographer. From a photographic perspective, Iceland is an absolute highlight.
