Travel Report: Lofoten April 2016

Travel Report: Lofoten April 2016

From April 10th to 24th, I spent two amazing weeks on the Lofoten Islands together with two participant groups and the team from Phototours4U. And let me tell you it was absolutely worth it!

Day 1

We arrived at the Lofoten Suite Hotel in Svolvær around 9:00 p.m., our home for the next 14 days. An hour later we headed out to Kabelvåg to see what we could get. The sky was cloudy, so no northern lights, but we still managed to get a decent shot.
This week we might still have some chances for aurora. A week later it will already be too bright. In just two weeks, the length of the day changes by almost three hours, and by May the sun doesn’t set at all anymore.

Day 2

Cloudy skies. Not great weather… So first a relaxed breakfast, then some grocery shopping in Svolvær. Early in the afternoon we set off to explore bad-weather locations. We photographed a decaying boat wreck, then continued to Gimsøy, always worth a visit, even in poor conditions. On the way back we stumbled upon an old tractor trailer stuck in the mud off the road. Something different, but not exactly my type of subject.

Day 3

Grey skies all around, though occasionally a break in the clouds. We started our tour around midday heading south. Along the way we passed plenty of potential photo spots: some beautiful lakes still covered with a thin layer of ice. But the sky was just a flat grey wall with no texture, not suitable at all.
So we drove on toward Haukland. The weather improved. Clearing skies brought alternating hail showers and sunshine every 15 minutes. Quickly set up the tripod, compose the shot, fire away, then pack up again before the next hailstorm hit. We stood there like penguins in Antarctica, backs to the wind, waiting it out. Once the sun came back, we shook off the white layer and kept shooting until the next round.

In the evening we went through the tunnel to Uttakleiv. Fantastic weather! Sunshine and a beautiful sunset. That night the skies were clear, but sadly no aurora.

Day 4

I could hardly believe my eyes: pure sunshine, not a single cloud! I didn’t even know such weather existed on the Lofoten.
At midday we headed south again, first to Myrland. But the light was still too harsh, the sky bright blue. Great weather, but for photos a few clouds would’ve helped, otherwise it’s just a plain blue wall. Ah well, postcard time. Complaining on a high level, I know.
Next stop Hamnøy. Got the obligatory shot quickly, then on to Reine, unfortunately at low tide. Not great conditions. Later we photographed at Yttersand in the grassy dunes with the sun at our back, waiting forever for the sun to finally set behind the mountains. Then off to Vareid for a gorgeous sunset by the sea.
Last stop for the day: Reine again. But still too little water, so the dark foreground rocks ruined the composition. Not ideal. That evening the skies stayed clear, but again no aurora. Still, what a day!

Day 5

The weather turned grey again. This time we drove north to Laukvik. On the way we stopped at a run-down hut, a great side catch. Then continued to the lighthouse where we stayed until evening. Sadly, the sky was just a uniform grey with no structure. We made the best of it, capturing the lighthouse during blue hour, and returned to the hotel late at night.

Day 6

We started around midday under cloudy but photogenic skies. Destination: Unstad, the surfers’ beach. And yes, plenty of surfers were there. We shot them and also experimented with the black round stones washed by the waves. Later in the evening the weather closed in.
We drove on to Uttakleiv where the conditions improved, allowing us to include a brief moment of sunlight in our shots.

Day 7

A more “relaxed” day. Beautiful weather again: lots of sun and some clouds. Around noon we went to the small village of Nusfjord, spending an easy afternoon photographing whatever caught our eye—fishing huts, stockfish, seagulls, boats. The little village shop even opened just for us, as we were the only visitors and the owner lived next door. We bought ice cream and snacks, and in the sun it felt surprisingly warm for Norway.
Later we continued to Flakstad at low tide. The shallow water created beautiful reflections across the beach. Then on to Eggum for a stunning sunset, where we kept shooting well into the night.

Day 8

The first week came to an end. Serdar took the group to the airport and picked up the new participants, so I had the day to myself. The weather was fantastic again. At midday I visited familiar locations—Henningsvær, Gimsøy, Myrland—but the light was too harsh. In the afternoon the sky clouded over, and it began to rain in the south. I tried my luck at Uttakleiv instead, and fortune smiled on me: a glorious sunset! On the way back I stopped at Eggum, but the weather had turned bad again, so I returned to the hotel just before midnight.

Day 9

The “new” group had 10 participants, so things might get crowded at the spots. Alongside us were Serdar and Christian from Phototours4U.
We started around midday, shot all through the night, and only got back to the hotel at 7:00 a.m. First stop: Myrland beach—once again under a blue sky. The weather was almost too good. Next, Hamnøy for a wonderful sunset. Christian, the wizard, pulled out his bag of tricks and showed us some great perspectives—like a mountain range reflected in a puddle on the rocks. After crawling on my stomach across the rocks for 15 minutes with the camera just inches off the ground, I finally got the shot. The things you do for a poster! But that’s the fun of it—and the result was worth it.
Later, at 4:00 a.m., we witnessed a breathtaking sunrise at Eggum. The mountains glowing red in the light, an unforgettable experience!

Day 10

After returning to the hotel at 7:00 a.m., we had breakfast (more like dinner for us) and went straight to bed. Woke up at 4:00 p.m., prepared, and left around 6:00 p.m. By 9:00 p.m. we were on location for sunset. With such consistently good weather that week, we shifted our daily schedule accordingly. Believe me: when you shoot all night and only crawl into bed at 8:00 a.m., your batteries are drained—and I don’t mean the camera’s.
First stop: Uttakleiv. No matter how many times you visit, this beach is a dream for photographers—endless compositions and perspectives. Later, on to Fredvang until 2:00 a.m. Then Flakstad for the 4:00 a.m. sunrise. The whole sky glowed orange with not a cloud in sight. Incredible! Exhausted, we returned to the hotel by 7:00 a.m.

Day 11

The weather didn’t look good: heavily overcast but at least no rain. We left later than usual and headed north toward Laukvik. Along the way we stopped at a lonely fisherman’s hut—such huts are common on the Lofoten, but the more picturesque ones make for great subjects. We stayed until everyone had their shots.
In the evening we continued to Laukvik lighthouse. Strong winds and freezing temperatures as always at the coast. Between the jagged rocks, deep puddles reflected the lighthouse from the right angle. One spot really caught my eye. After 20 minutes on my knees, sliding over rocks, almost dunking my tripod into the water, I finally got the shot. Half frozen and dead tired, we made our way back to the hotel at dawn.

Day 12

The weather wasn’t great. We drove to Haukland beach and worked on long exposures—cloud movement, smoothing water, and so on. Under the thick clouds it was pitch dark. We tried Uttakleiv, but the weather was even worse. On the way back we stopped at Gimsøy, but there too: storm and rain. So we returned to the hotel.

Day 13

A new day, new hope—but the weather hadn’t improved. We tried Yttersand, where it started to hail. A few attempts, but I wasn’t satisfied with the results. We headed to Uttakleiv and waited for sunrise. Slowly the clouds cleared, and at 4:30 a.m. we were rewarded with a magnificent sunrise! That made the day. Sometimes one great shot is all you need. Back to the hotel with our catch.

Day 14

Our last day on the Lofoten. Since we had to leave for the airport at 7:00 a.m. the next morning, only a short trip was possible. After sleeping in, we went for one final outing to Gimsøy. This time the weather matched the location perfectly, and I captured some last good shots. By 10:00 p.m. we were back at the hotel. Time to rest and readjust to a normal rhythm before heading home.

The Lofoten are an absolute paradise for landscape photographers! My next trip there will be next winter and of course, I’m hoping for some spectacular northern lights.

ANDRÉ WANDREI

I am a passionate nature and landscape photographer. Since 2011, I have been drawn out into the wild again and again – in search of special moments filled with light, silence, and harmony.

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